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12-07-2005, 12:16 PM

I have made a few bows, lately I've become fond of Osage backed with boo with deflex/reflex built into them. The bow I am working on now I want to try my hand at antler tips. I have mule deer antlers here and need some info on how to go about this.   I know you cut the bow limb tips at an angle to match up the antler tips, but how long of a cut do I make? Also do I run the cut out flush on the back of the boo towards the riser end, or should I make a little step at that point in the boo and butt the antler tip up against the step? Do I run the cut out on the belly to a thin end or do I leave that a little thick also? Do I run a toothing plain on the surfaces which I will glue? Should I shape the antler tip close before glue up or just do it after? How well does antler take stain? I would really like to leave the back side of the antler surface in it's natural state with the appearance of how it really was on the bucks head.   Ok there's 50 questions Smile

Thanks....

12-07-2005, 11:03 PM

I usually cut my nocks at around 3/4" so I generally go around inch or so for the overlays. I cut it so it's flush with the boo, no step. You don't have to cut it at an angle I do it because I like how it looks. I don't stain my antler tips, I just clear over them so I can't answer that question.  I cut the antler so it matches, but wait until it's glued on to final shape it. And finally I do rough both surfaces with a toothing plane blade.   Here's a picture of one I did with zebra wood but I do antler the same way:   <A href="http://www.cvzoom.net/~mcooper/dbbo4.jpg" target=_blank>www.cvzoom.net/~mcooper/dbbo4.jpg</A>

12-08-2005, 01:07 AM

Coop,what do you use for glue?Urac?...Jim

12-08-2005, 02:32 AM

I have used Urac with good results, now I mostly use smooth-on epoxy since I usually already have it here for the T/D recurves I make.

12-08-2005, 08:23 AM

Thanks Mike, ya think smooth on is better than urac?

12-08-2005, 08:40 AM

I wouldn't say better. It's just what I always have here so I use it.

12-08-2005, 10:52 AM

Thanks mike.I'm in the process of building another bow,when I get to it I want to put on overlays...Jim.

12-08-2005, 02:16 PM

Here's a set of whitetail antler overlays I did on one of my BBOs   <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/halbleib/tip.jpg" align=baseline border=0>   I only made these overlays 1½" long. I like the looks of the 2" better though. I don't have any bows here now with any that I did with 2" overlays (funny how all those bows ended up in the possession of friends <IMG src="http://www.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/confused.gif" align=absMiddle border=0>).   <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/halbleib/tip2.jpg" align=baseline border=0>   I hope these pics give you an idea of the angle you want. These were done with Smooth-on. Take care to fit them properly so you end up with a tight fit that looks seamless.   <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/halbleib/tip3.jpg" align=baseline border=0>   -Brian

12-08-2005, 09:39 PM

Thanks bro, looks real sweet.

12-09-2005, 12:10 AM

[Image: Bowtips1.jpg]

[Image: Bowtips4.jpg]

Roy, the angles you make will determine how far below the string groove the overlay extends on the bow's back, and whether the string grooves along the sides and belly are cut through horn, wood, or both. I like my overlays to extend about 1 1/4" + to the handle side of the string groove on the back. So, on the full length stave I measure and mark the location of my string groove on the stave's back, and measure toward the handle 1 1/4" or so and make a mark..... that's where my final grinding will fade out onto the surface of the bow's back. No steps. The only other thing I have to determine is the angle. I grind the bow and overlays on a belt sander.   I vary the angle a little bit depending on bow design and the effect I want. Try to visualize what you want it to look like when it's done, and it even helps to lay out your string grooves and angles where antler and wood will meet in pencil to be used as a guide throughout the process.   To answer a few more of your questions, yes, run the angle straight through from the surface of the back to the surface of the belly. Yes, rough up the gluing surface if you're gonna use Urac or Smooth On. I use Smooth On. Be especially careful with the toothing plane blade out near the back, where the boo will remain when you're done. It's also a good idea to wipe away excess glue imediately after clamping(lightly), so that you have less hard glue to clean up on the bow's back afterwards.   I do virtually no shaping on the overlay until the glue has set. When I glue them on, the tip of the stave is still a little fat too, allowing some room for shaping after glue up.   Don't over clamp. I've actually done it without clamps. Keep the thing warm so the glue cures properly. I usually put a utility lamp near the tip and if it's cool out in the shop, I'll cover it with a towel to help retain the heat.   Antler is more porous than horn, but still doesn't take stain very well. Aniline dye works better, but......   Good luck trying to maintain the natural 'bumpy' look of the antler. I tried that too. It's hard to effect the cutting/grinding of the perfect angles, blend everything into the limb, and still maintain that look on these kinds of tips.   Let us know how it works out.