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04-12-2007, 07:53 AM

Well I am trying my first river cane arrow. Doesn't look too bad but I am sure I will improve. I need to do a little more straightening though. I think I will also drill the nock end and slide a piece of Osage down into that end about an inch and leave it flush with the end of the cane. The point end has Osage down inside 3 inches and it is bottomed out against the first node. I did split the shaft a slight bit, prolly because I ran the drill in too fast would be my guess. I decided just to keep going and finish this arrow anyway. The epoxy oozed out of the split and I then clamped the outside of the shaft. I'm sure it will be strong enough to shoot. I was surprised how straight the drill bit went in. I guess it follows the hollow cavity. Any suggestions are welcome, thanks Roy <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://www.geocities.com/roy2953/canearrows1.jpg" align=baseline border=0> <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://www.geocities.com/roy2953/canearrows2.jpg" align=baseline border=0> <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://www.geocities.com/roy2953/canearrows3.jpg" align=baseline border=0> <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://www.geocities.com/roy2953/canearrows4.jpg" align=baseline border=0> <IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="http://www.geocities.com/roy2953/canearrows5.jpg" align=baseline border=0>

04-12-2007, 09:29 AM

Hey Roy, you might want to take another look at the "foreshaft thread". There are two methods that work fine for boo/cane inserts and looks like you chose the pin and shoulder method for that particular shaft. That method works fine for thin walled boo/cane and the conical method for the thicker walled stuff. You don't need that long of a pin on your foreshaft, around an 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" should be enough. But if your walls are thick enough it's best to use the conical method whenever possible. To prevent your shafts from splitting in the future when you drill 'em just wrap their ends with masking tape (about 4 wraps should do it). Best adhesive for gluing inserts in with is super glue. Why you ask? Probably cause you're going to glue 'em in crooked anyway and that's where this stuff shines. Apply a little heat and re-straighten.  Don't worry about a little scorch here and there Roy. Makes for a more trad looking arrow you know<IMG src="http://www.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif" align=absMiddle border=0>! But you do want to evenly temper your shafts and you should wind up with a nice golden brownish color. Be sure to heat your whole shaft now, and not just here or wherever. You want consistent temper throughout the shaft. You can roll those nodes down somewhat by heating 'em good and then pressing 'em down with a hardwood block. Just finished up a few of my own Roy. Used some first year's growth cane I had planned on throwing away, stuff had thin walls though, but it spined out OK for my needs so I went ahead and make 'em up. Will show you one I tested and how well that super glue works. [Image: aaa086.jpg]

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I used the conical inserts in these cane even though their walls were a little thinner then I like for this method. Even without a wrap behind the point it received no damage whatsoever to the shaft from being shot into the tree from a 50# bow at 10ft. Usually I like for the point to at least fit over the end of the cane/boo about an 1/8" when doing 'em this way but these shafts are 3/8" dia at the point end so I went with a shorter insert. But this conical method will handle longer foreshafts as well.-ART B

04-12-2007, 12:00 PM

Nice arrows Art.. I have a lot of cane here so I'll be trying to make some good arrows. Keep the suggestions coming.. Thanks Roy

04-12-2007, 11:42 PM

Roy I don't drill out the cane at all..I just make the foreshaft small enough to slide in the cane and bottom out on the node..dull the end of foreshaft ..make a point end on the foreshaft so you can spin it and get it lined up and trued then mark with a pencil and glue it up with hide glue, but after you install the point on the foreshaft...make sure your point is trued by spinning it also ..if you accidentally make the notch too big you can shim it with cedar bark strips....you want the point to be tight even before you glue it...lookin good ther old man...<img src="http://www.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/cool.gif" align="middle" border="0">...gut

04-13-2007, 10:57 AM

Well I played some more tonight with another shaft. Found out I want to have my foreshaft above a node or at least away from a node so I don't have to deal with the flat spots on the cane.. Not right below a node like I did this arrow. But heck I'm learning by my mistakes Smile

Looks cool though and is purty straight. All I need are feathers and I kin test her Art Smile

  Got a question, how should the arrow lay on the bow, with the flat spots above the nodes facing up? That seems to be the best way to me. That leaves a nice flat edge up againist the bows shelf. But what do I know bout cane arrahs? Smile

04-13-2007, 11:27 PM

roy,you were talking about tempering cane earlier,is it necessary?how do you do it?

04-13-2007, 11:52 PM

Lookin good Roy.....don't worry about the nodes you can sand them down a tad but no too much, messes with the integrity of your cane...If the cane is spined correctly and I hope you are spining your cane the paradox will eliminate the cane riding on the shelf anyway..now on my cane I spine them at 70 at 25 inches then foreshaft around 3 to 4 inches outside of the end of the cane..then add point and sinew the weight drops my spine back down ..they shoot absolutely perfect out of my bows which are all around 54 @ 25....gut

04-14-2007, 12:03 AM

BTW....you really ought to set your foreshaft up with hide glue bro...stay away from super glue and epoxy...reason...when shooting at big game sometimes you will break the foreshaft and get your arrow back..now if you can't get the remains of your foreshaft out you can't reuse your arrow and all that work is wasted...that is one advantage of foreshafting cane..I got 2 arrows that I have reforeshafted and still get to use and one of them got sent through a 140 class 8 pt last year..I got him at the house..Oh brother he is huge..died of natural causes..osage , rivercane  and obsidiain.......gut

04-14-2007, 01:32 AM

Going to have to disagree with you Gut about using super glue and epoxy. Only to the extent about the conical method I use to attach foreshafts and nock inserts though. Both types of adhesive will release with the proper amount of heat plus this conical method is much stronger at the joint and the super glue make it even more so by super hardening the pith around it. Method I use is well tested and serves my purposes very well. I would say that 99.999% of my shots with these types of arrows are shot into wet targets, hard 3-D targets and bounced off trees and rocks. Occasionally I throw one at a deer. Method Gut uses, I'm sure, works very well for him. So as you see Roy, more then one method works, just use what works well for yourself and disregard everything else. <IMG src="http://www.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/idea.gif" align=absMiddle border=0>ART B

04-14-2007, 02:13 AM

No problem Art.....nothing wrong with disagreeing respectfully and you sir have done that..I shoot my cane at animals, and styrofoam targets..never shot one at a tree....probably never will either...it is easy to remove foreshafts set in hide glue..you can either soak it in water or just do the heat gun trick...and talk about a super glue ...hide glue is just that except it takes alot longer to set up....which is what I want it to do so I can get the shaft to spin as true as possible..BTW your shafts are beautiful bro....gut